Adventure on the Empress of Ireland

By Capt. David Caldwell

June 23, 2002

Dives 1 & 2

 

    Well it has been nine long years since I have been to Rimouski and dove the Empress of Ireland.  Things here look about the same except the last time I was here you didn’t see or hear about the wreck although people obviously knew about it, they didn’t advertise it as much as this time.  It seems like a lot of places such as restaurants, local businesses and hotels all have something on the Empress.  The town looks about the same but it has been built up a little more but it still has that small coastal community flare to it.  The scenery around here is beautiful with the St. Lawrence River and the hills and valleys all around.  The people here all speak French and English is hardly spoken.

 

    We met up with Capt. Jean-Pierre, the owner of the dive charter boat.  He is the primary charter operator that runs charters to the wreck.  Our trip is his first charter of the season, for the most part it is still late spring to them up here.  The boat is nothing what we are use to, It’s an old fiberglass ChrisCraft that most people would use for a pleasure boat. The boat runs well with twin engines is very fast and has a full compliment of marine electronics.  It is a lot different from the first boat I went to the Empress on, which was a 90’ steel whale watching boat.  Having a small fast boat is really the way to go because it is very easy to pick-up and head out on a short notice, which sometimes is necessary because of the ever so changing weather patterns.

 

    After loading the small boat with our gear, we started out for the wreck.  It took almost a half hour to reach the sight.  The Canadian government has the wreck moored as well as buoyed stating that the wreck is a protected sight. This was not there the last time I was here. We quickly picked up one of the three moorings, which happened to be the midship portion of the wreck.  That was good because that is where we tied in the first time that I dove the wreck, and I felt comfortable in this area even though it was nine years ago.  Heather and I had our gear situated first just by a matter of chance so we started getting ready first.  We got suited with the help of Simon the crew; he was very helpful by just standing by and assisting only if needed.  After getting all set we made a side roll into the water, I rolled in first and Heather followed right behind me.  We hung onto a rope until we could reach the down line.  The current was very strong and it could easily blow you away from the boat.  I pulled myself along the mooring line and started heading down.  Heather was close behind and within a matter of 10’-15’ below the surface the visibility went down to about 5’-10’, and the water got extremely dark, almost dark black.  When you looked to the surface the water looked dark green, it was an incredible site.

 

    We descended down to about 75’ and the port rail appeared out of know where.  The mooring was attached through two portholes; one still had the swing plate still intact.  It was as I remembered it as if I dove it yesterday.  Heather and I orientated ourselves and off we went swimming towards the bow.  We got to a section where the rail takes a dip down, this is where the front of the helm area which has been collapsed, but the rail is still intact.  The wreck sits at about 70-80 degrees almost on its side, at the rail it is about 75’ –85’ and it drops down to 140’.  We dropped down to where the helm would have been, which is the middle of the forward deck area.  We saw some of the deck booms and winches.  At this point we swam back up to the rail and back towards the mooring line.  Heather was following close behind so not to get separated because she wasn’t orientated to the wreck.  It is a big wreck and takes a few dives to become familiar with what end is really up.  Although as long as you stay outside the wreck and on the deck all you need to do is swim up and you should reach the rail.  In theory this should happen but not always, with a wreck this big and decks that have collapsed over the years that when you swim up you could actually swim into the wreck without even realizing it.  Once we got to the mooring line we noticed that we still had time to swim around some more.

 

    Heather had been shooting video and she was carrying the camera against a strong current so she decided to take a break from shooting and clip the camera off next to the mooring line.  Once she clipped it off we swam back towards the stern, there is a blast hole that was caused by a salvage crew years before. We got to the blast hole and explored that area for a while.  Through out the dive the deepest we got was 120’ and that was only for a short time, most of the dive was spent around 85’-95’.  It was great because you could do a 25’-30’ dive without getting into all kinds of deco.  After spending sometime at the blast hole we moved back to the mooring, picked up the video camera and made our ascent towards the surface.  It was a awesome dive and worth the 12 hour drive to get here.

 

    After spending about two hours on the surface we prepared ourselves for our second dive.  We decided to use the same tanks from our first dive for our second dive so we didn’t need to change over tanks.  But we needed to get suited back up and get ready to jump in for round two.  Over the side we went and down the mooring line to the rail.  Once at the rail we decided to swim into the wreck through an opened hatch located about 10’ from the mooring.  It was a easy penetration and I swam in about 15’-20’, and Heather stayed near the entrance so I could stay in sight of her light.  Once she shined the light away from my direction for a second it got real dark.  So dark that my eyes started playing tricks on me as they tried to focus in complete darkness.  She shined the light back in my direction and I swam towards her.

 

    Once I reach her we both turned around and swam towards the exit.  That was really exciting to look out through a string of portholes from the inside of the wreck.  After we exited the wreck we swam back over the rail and down towards the deck, which was the ceiling from where we penetrated.  We swam down to about the middle of the ship.  There are large open wholes that dropped down two – three decks into the wreck.  We explored this area for a short time and started making our way back to the mooring line.  The whole time the current was screaming and you needed to hang onto something the whole time, or you would blink and you were gone off the wreck.  Once we reached the line we started our ascent to the surface.  By the time we reached the surface the current had increased even more and the temperature dropped because of the water blowing by you.  It got cold real quick, so it was good that we didn’t have a long deco.  If we did we would have been shaking from the cold when we got out, but everything was just right and we exited the water just in time from getting real cold.  This dive was even better than the first.

 

June 24, 2002

Dive Cancelled Due To Strong Winds.

 

June 25, 2002

Capt. Dave’s Dives 3 & 4

 

    We gathered at the boat around 7:30 for an 8:00 departure. The weather had made a 180* change from the day before, with flat calm sea’s and a slight wind from the southwest, a good wind to dive the Empress.  We headed out for our second trip to the wreck sight.  We all had plans to check out some areas that we all saw the day before, so we wanted to tie into the midship again.  We all discussed where this area was and how we could all check it out.  Something funny happened within two days of diving the wreck, the midship mooring had broken loose and the surface barrel had floated away.  Interesting thing is that these three moorings have just recently been installed for this up coming season, so all of the ground tackle was new.  A belief could be had that this wreck is haunted with the spirits of the victims of this horrific catastrophe.  It appeared, knowing that we had intentions and a plan to visit a particular part of the wreck, that something around us didn’t want this to happen.

 

    After tying to the mooring off the stern, we started suiting up and preparing ourselves for a dive.  Paul and Lee started suiting up first because Heather and I went in first on the last trip out.  They quickly put it together and headed into the water with Heather and myself close behind.  We started down the line and the current was real strong and the temperature seemed colder than the two days before.  Heather and I got a little disorientated going down the line and with limited visibility things were not going right.  We where on the rail at about 75’-85’and I started swimming towards the bow with Heather following behind.  On occasion Heather and I were out of sight of each other and it was difficult to stay orientated with the wreck, within a few minutes into the dive things did not feel right.  Heather motioned to me to turn around and head back to the line, so without hesitation I started swimming back to mooring.  Within a matter of a few minutes we arrived at the mooring line, and Heather gave me the thumbs up.

 

    Sometimes things just don’t go right and a solid dive team can identify when things are going sour.  To have the discipline to turn a dive that we traveled so far to reach is one of the things it takes to turn a dive.  When we reached the surface we discussed collectively as a group about the things that didn’t go right.  There was some disappointment in turning the dive but there was no doubt that it was the right thing to do.  After staying out for good long surface interval and slowly getting ready for a better second dive.  We discussed exactly what we were going to do and what area of the wreck that we were going to check out. Paul and Lee found a good area to see that was relatively easy to get to without becoming disorientated, so we opted to check it out.  When we got down to the rail of the wreck we took a moment to get our bearings.  Once we got comfortable and orientated we started dropping straight down from the mooring.  We followed the deck down to about 120’, and noticed that the decking had collapsed like a sandwich that had multiple layers.  The area that we wanted to see was an area of decking that had been torn off a year before by a fishnet being dragged by a fishing boat. It opened up a new section of wreckage that has not been seen that much, meaning that there was a lot of stuff to see.  For example we saw complete deck chairs, ornate woodcarvings, bathroom fixtures and bits and pieces of the victims.  On Paul’s and Lee’s dive, Lee thought he found a soap dish, so he dug at it and got his hands on it.  When he brought it to his sight he realized that the soap dish had teeth.  Anyway Heather and I were having a great dive on this go around.  We carefully stayed in communication even though we where in zero visibility.  We paid close attention to where we were in reference to the mooring line.  We knew if we moved together that we could stay orientated to our position.

 

    Once we had a chance to look around we gave the signal to head back towards the line.  It was a big change from our first dive.  We worked as a close team working together, to stay orientated, keep in constant communication, and keep each other safe so we could both enjoy our dive.  This wreck gives you strange thoughts if you believe in the spirit world, I have dove many wrecks and none have given me the feelings that I feel or experiences that I have had on this wreck.  This sight would be like walking through a cemetery and knowing that below the head stones that a dead body is buried there, but at this sight you don’t know where the bodies are buried.  The more I dive this wreck the more respect that develops within me.  I have less of an ambition to remove anything from the wreck even though the wreck is protected, I feel as if I am removing things from the dead.  As Lee said disturbing the dead gives you bad JUE JUE, and he is in the dead people business so I trust his statement.

 

June 26, 2002

Capt. Dave’s Dives 5 & 6

 

    Today Heather and I had a day that originally was going to be a day off of diving, but because we missed a day because of bad weather we decided to got out to the wreck again with the two of us.  Jack, Donna, and Greg were making the long drive up today and would be joining us tomorrow.  Simon, Jean Pierre’s crew also joined us for today’s dive.  We opted to dive the bow section so when we arrived at the wreck we picked up on the bow mooring and started getting ready to dive.  Simon mentioned that we should wait a while and the current would slow down a little and it would be better to get in 30’- 40’.  So we decided to get everything ready so when it slowed down we could jump in.  While we were hanging out another operator came by and tied off and waited with us.  They had plans to replace the mooring that had broken loose two days before.  So they started getting the ground tackle ready for their dive while we carried on good dive conversation.

 

    The current started to slow down and it was time to make our first dive of the day, this would be our sixth dive on this trip.  Heather jumped in first and I followed close behind, the current was still running but it had slowed quite a lot since we first arrived.  We started down the line and staying close together we reached the wreck.  The mooring was tied into the rail as all the other ones were, so we orientated ourselves as to which direction was towards the bow.  We then started checking out the forward deck area looking at the bits, winches, lifting booms and lots of decking.  Dropping down to about 120’ we where located on the centerline of the decking.  From that position we started zigzagging our way towards the stern.  Under the decking that we where swimming over was the first class staterooms.  We dropped over a rail and where now on the main forward deck area.  We noticed that where the forward staterooms would have been, the wall was deteriorated and you could look forward to the bow and see how the interior walls had collapsed.  It gave you a clear picture of what it would have looked like when it was intact.  At that point we decided to make our way back towards the upper rail and get ourselves back to the mooring line.  We definitely got a good look at the forward bow area and came up with some new areas to check out on a second dive. After getting to the mooring we noticed that we had sometime to spare so we moved forward to the tip of the bow, we wanted to check out the name on the bow area but the current was real strong and there was not much to hang onto.  So in this case we stayed close to the rail so we could hang on and if necessary we could drop over the rail into the lee of the current.  As we swam forward we saw a complete porthole fully intact with uncracked glass.  What a sight to see, you wished that you could work on these artifacts and bring them home.

Well this dive was just about over, all we had to do is swim about 30’ back on the rail to the mooring line and up we went to make a short deco stop.  This was a great dive and we got to see a whole new section of the wreck.  At this point we got to see the wreck from the stern to the bow and it is a huge wreck and I can’t wait to make the next dive.

 

    We sat out for our surface interval for about an hour just relaxing in the sun and waiting for Simon to return and talking the best we can with Jean Pierre.  It’s different to talk with someone where you don’t know French and they don’t know English, but you can still carry on a conversation.  It goes to show if you have a little patience and you are both divers, you can always talk about diving.  Within a matter of a few minutes Simon returned from the deep.  He got out and he could translate more of a conversation between all of us.  We had a great talk about different things about diving and stories that they knew that pertained to the wreck.  Before we knew it we had to get ready for the next dive, oh boohoo.  I can’t wait, because this dive we decided to venture back to the first class deck area.  We jumped in the water and down we went, at the bottom the visibility had gone to zero.  You couldn’t see two feet, but we knew right where we wanted to go, back to the first class deck area.  Within minutes we were swimming down the rail and then down towards the centerline of the ship.  While making this swim you passed along the first class cabins and without getting into any penetration you could see how the interior cabin walls have collapsed.  If the wreck wasn’t protected this area would be a great digging area.  It kills me to come across some of the best artifacts that I have ever seen and not be able to touch anything.  It should be a criminal offense to protect shipwrecks from wreck divers taking booty.

 

    From the centerline of the wreck we looked at the decking and the ship went one way, the deck went another way, and the wall went another way.  We had zero visibility and felt our way around by following where the wall and the deck met.  When everything started going in different directions we gave the turn around sign and we headed back to the rail.  From the rail we swam towards the mooring and up we went for a short deco.  So far we have not run a guideline while diving this wreck, although we have become very orientated to the wreck and a big part of this is that I have dove the wreck before and I felt comfortable leading the dives.  Within 2- 3 dives Heather also found herself becoming orientated to swimming the wreck and at any point during the dives that we had accomplished she was able to find her way as well.  There are a lot of different rules of thumb in regards to running lines and not running lines.  I am a believer in using guidelines on shipwrecks especially if the wreck is smashed up on the bottom and there is a huge debris field.  Debris fields are very disorientating to swim around and it takes more than a few dives to become comfortable swimming without a line returning you to the mooring line.  Diving the Empress has some very distinct orientation points that really can’t be mistaken, first is the rail, because it runs the full length of the ship, and it’s at about 75’- 85’.  Second is the 70*-80* angle of the wreck, more or less, along with the way that the teak decking runs parallel to the rail.  The deck is torn up in some areas and missing in others, but it still runs parallel to the rail running bow to stern.  Third is do some homework and studying pictures, deck plans, ship models, and anything else that give you none points.  Parts of the wreck have been removed though salvage and decks have collapsed over the years but knowing what or how this happened you can still keep yourself from not getting lost.  It is a very large wreck and it is known for being dark and having zero visibility.  Until I had a couple of dives and talked with divers that dive the wreck all the time, I ran a line.

 

June 27, 2002

Dive 7

 

    The second group that was joining us arrived the day before today.  We had Jack, Donna, and Greg all of them dive with us on a regular basis off the Donna III.  So everyone was comfortable diving together and that takes pressure off not knowing the people you are diving with.  We all met first thing at the hotel for breakfast and it gave us the opportunity to give a dive briefing and how things ran.  The weather was looking okay, but there was a dense fog that created zero visibility on the surface.  It was a good thing for modern day electronics because if we didn’t have them we where going to sit at the dock until it burned off.  Jean Pierre pushed the bottoms on the G.P.S. and switched on the radar and off we went.  Someone asked the questions about getting blown off the wreck or not finding the anchor line and Simon the divemaster replied “don’t get blown off”.  That was a true statement and everyone knew that meant don’t get lost on the wreck. Rule meaning run a line if you are not comfortable.

 

    We had everyone else get suited first and get into the water, as it was there first dives on the wreck.  It worked out well because on a small boat everyone has to participate helping each other out, it’s almost required in order to make these trips successful.  Jack and Donna got ready first, Donna decided against bringing the video camera on the first dive which was good because it was their first dive on the Empress and it was best to get an idea of what to expect for conditions.  Greg got ready next using his Inspiration rebreather.  He suited up and checked all the bells and whistles and off he went.  Believe it or not the current was non-existent.  They didn’t believe us but in the back of their minds they knew they had good conditions.  The other thing was the sea was flat calm which takes the pressure off diving the wreck for your first time.  The first dives that we had at the beginning of the week also gave us a flat calm sea, a huge stress reducer.

 

    Heather and I made the decision that since we dove the bow section the day before and since these guys haven’t been diving the wreck that the stern would be a good place to start.  We got suited and had a plan to drop straight down from the mooring and check out a debris field that had all kinds of things to see.  Heather jumped in first and when she jumped in her light helmet went sinking off in big blue.  Simon mentioned that she forgot her helmet and I said I saw it on her when she jumped in.  After the dive she said she saw it floating away, she made a quick judgment call to stay on the line and not do something dumb like trying to go after it, even in a mild current.  Gear can be replaced easier than chasing you ass down, good choice.  Anyway back to the dive I followed her down the line passing Jack and Donna, then Greg coming up.  We got to rail and down we dropped to about 120’.  We stayed at this depth and started moving towards the stern checking out some of the best artifacts that just couldn’t be had.  Boy it is real tough to see such beautiful things and not be able to bring anything home.  It’s not all that bad I guess considering that next year when we come back that these things should still be around.  Moving towards the stern we slowly came up from 120’ to about 110’ then to 90’.  Stuff is everywhere you look you can see down into the wreck multiple decks into the ship.  Decks are stacked on top of each other and some are about a foot apart, layer on top of layer.  Once we reached the stern we got to the rail and moved forward towards the bow back to the aft mooring line.  We reach the line and up we went for our deco.

 

    On the surface things where changing rather quickly, the fog had blown out and it was starting to clear up, but with the fog lifting it started to change the flat calm sea.  Simon had passed us on the line heading down for his dive and everyone was doing a surface interval.  We saw a large ship pass us and within minutes large waves came towards the boat, it almost seemed like the wake of the ship that passed moments before.  Guess what? It wasn’t the wake it was large waves building rather quickly.  We started getting ready to get back in and Jean Pierre looked at me and I looked at him and he gave us a sign to hold on.  He motioned that he wanted to wait a minute until Simon got back on the deck, and more important to see what these waves were going to do.  Within minutes Simon surfaced and the waves were now cresting whitecaps.  Simon rolled into the back of the boat, we stowed gear and off we went back to port.  It was really something to see the river go from flat calm to a solid 4’- 6’ sea within minutes and I mean minutes.  We got back to dock with one dive in and by the looks of it we were not going to dive for days after, but things change quit quickly in the St. Lawrence.  It’s here on minute and gone the next, by early evening after filling our tanks it went back down to being flat calm, go figure.

 

June 28, 2002

Dive 8 & 9:

 

    We got the weather report the night before and we where told to call in the morning to see if we would have a go or no go.  We talked with Danny another operator that ran out to wreck as well as Jean Pierre.  Danny was the person who filled our tanks with a portable compressor that he brought to Jean Pierre’s house for the week.  It was a great setup to be able to bring our tanks to his house and have our tanks pumped up.  Well after talking with him he was an optimist and he said that we would get out for sure.  That was good to hear considering the weather report was grim and considering what we had experienced, that was good to hear.  We called first thing in the morning before we met everyone for breakfast and the weather was looking awesome, another go figure.  Everyone was ready to go before we even gave the word, flat calm seas, fog burning off and there was no wind.  Well how about that a total opposite from the day before, you never know until you wake up in the morning what the day will bring.  We had a quick breakfast and off to the boat.  Today Simon wasn’t going to be on the boat and he was going to miss a great day.

 

    We loaded the boat and off we went back for more thrills and chills.  Since we didn’t get to do two dives the day before on the stern we opted to tie off in the stern area again.  Everyone had no problem with that because they where just getting orientated to the wreck so it was a good choice.  Heather and I mentioned some areas to check out and it and it would add to everyone’s dive.  Today Greg was going to lead off by heading in first followed by Jack and Donna.  Greg was all set and ready to lead off and down he went.  Greg was diving solo so it seemed that he was diving conservative, which was good.  I believe his greatest fear was not being able to find the mooring line, and without having another dive buddy to work with it’s best to play it safe and dive conservative.  Jack and Donna followed in right behind Greg, and Donna brought her video camera on this dive.  She figured she came a long way not to come back with some video and the other thing was there was no current to speak of on the surface.  Not having current on the surface didn’t mean we wouldn’t have any on the bottom but there would be a good chance there may not be any.

 

    At this point Heather and I got set to go with the help of Jean Pierre mostly handing us our gear as we needed it.  It’s always good to have someone pass you stuff as you need it rather than bouncing around the boat with heavy tanks on your back.  Heather was missing her helmet and I didn’t recognize my dive buddy without it.  That didn’t mean I lost her but it she didn’t look like my regular dive partner.  Down the line we went with great smiles and hearts pounding as we start another great dive.  We passed Donna on the line and as we got to bottom Jack was just starting his ascent.  I could see Greg’s light off in the distance as he was following the rail back for the bow towards the stern.  Heather and I dropped straight back down from the mooring line again to the other rail on the starboard side.  Here we started zigzagging our way back up to the portside.  Visibility was poor as usual but there was no current and the water seemed to be a lot colder than the day before.  Heather and I stayed tight together and stayed in constant communication, we were not going to have any miscommunications or disorientations as we did on our third dive.  We were far from the mooring line and we didn’t want to have any mishaps.  After our third dive we stepped right into each other’s shoes to make sure we were both on the same page.  It makes all the difference in the world to dive as a team and not just have someone diving with you.  Jack and Donna are a good example of this exercise, and when one is out of tune the other knows it.

 

    The water was cold and I started getting chilled so I gave the thumbs up and Heather gave the thumbs up and we headed back to the mooring line.  Another great dive and everyone seems to get better and better, we surfaced and everyone helped us getting out of the water.  The weather was warm and sunny boy did Simon miss a great day to be diving.  After making a short surface interval we all started getting prepared for our second dive of the day.  Greg got in his gear first and cranked up his rebreather, followed by Jack and Donna.  Heather and I started getting suited up again and we jumped in for our second dive.  We both enjoyed diving the stern section the most out of the whole wreck.  It had so much to see and you could see all kinds of stuff.  You see things here that you don’t get to see back diving in Mass. Bay.  The wreck is preserved quite well over the years, something to consider is that the St. Lawrence River can get ruff but it doesn’t have that heavy ocean ground swell that pounds wrecks to a pulp in the open ocean.  The ship is intact to the point that it has shape and figure of a beautiful ocean liner.  It is truly a world class dive sight that has a incredible tragic story that goes with it, to put your hand on it and to swim around it is better than any museum could ever have to offer.

 

    After passing Donna then Jack we could see Greg off in the distances making his way back towards the line, the two of us swam slightly forward then started to descend to the other side of the wreck.  We knew that this was going to be our last dive in the stern area so we wanted to make one final swim around the whole area that we had been exploring for the last two days.  There was so much to see and so little time to check everything out.  The more that I swim around the stern the more stuff that pops out to clear view, the things that you see here is amazing.  This last dive in the stern was going to be short because the water temperature had dropped and it was getting cold.  We reached the other side of the wreck and started swimming towards the stern.  Once we reached the debris area that we had been diving for the past couple of days we started swimming up the decking and back towards the mooring.  Before I knew it we reached the mooring and the dive was over.  I can’t wait until tomorrows dive because the weather is getting better and better.

 

June 28, 2002

Dives 10 & 11:

      Well it has been a long week and Heather and I have had the opportunity to dive from the bow to the stern, and doing a few dives in each area.  Our last dives we opted for the midship section of the wreck. .  The weather Gods where on our side because it was gorgeous, the sea was calm, clear skies, and no breeze.  It couldn’t get any better than this, even the current dropped off and the water visibility looked half decent from the surface.  Greg was ready first so he made the first plunge in the water.  Jack and Donna made the second jump in.  After Simon and us helped everyone in, Heather and I started getting suited up.  With the weather being so nice it was great getting ready at a leisurely pace with the help of Simon and Jean Pierre.

      Once we had it all together we did a roll into the water, we still hung on the line as we did the entry, but the current was almost slack.  We made a swim towards the mooring and started down the line.  The visibility wasn’t as good as it was on the surface but in was better than it had been all week.  Heather and I had a plan to swim towards the bow area and drop down on the main deck.  From that point we would cross the deck dropping towards the starboard side.  From here we where at about 120’- 130’, now we started moving our way back towards the stern, we basically swam a square pattern on the wreck.  As we started coming back over the helm area there was a lot of debris and twisted steel along with flattened decks. We had a good orientation point that kept us from getting lost using the rail just in front of the helm area.  Keeping ourselves about 15’- 20’ off the rail we could swim over this debris and keep ourselves from becoming disorientated.

     The visibility was poor and while looking down at the deck and not watching what was over my head I ended up swimming under one of the decks.  When I got to a point I realized that I couldn’t go any farther.  I could still see Heather behind me and I could see the rail that had been over to my right, but as I made my next kick I felt the bump on my tanks.  As Heather said later it wasn’t a natural movement.  What I felt was my heart making a heavy bang.  I thought for a second while looking around me to see where I was and what I got myself into.  By this point Heather had already started backing herself away from me, as she knew I got myself into IT.  To this point I only made one movement and felt the first thump, now it was time to make a second move a see how it goes.  Well it didn’t go well because I felt another thump as my tanks bounced off something one more time.  Now the heart is making a bang bang.  It got nerving as I couldn’t move and I could see all around me except for the decking directly in front of me, this prevented me from just swimming right through what ever I swam into.  Heather was still moving away to give me some space to allow myself to move around, what little that I could.  I figured at this point the only way out was by going back the way I came in and that was backwards.  The whole time I didn’t stir once because I didn’t want the visibility to blow up in my face or better yet make the situation worse than it was.  My third movement was now a calculated one and it had to be because I was stuck.  I figured that I needed to push myself out with my hands and pushing them off the decking in front of me.  The second I did that the visibility went to zero but I felt myself moving out of the area that I swam into.  Heather watched and moved herself out of the way so I didn’t have to stop my momentum as I came out of the hole.

     This whole little jam up took seconds to happen and I look back it felt like an hour.  Heather knew the second she saw me get startled that I was in a jam and by her moving back away from me was the best thing to do, because there wasn’t much she was going to be able to do for me if she got stuck to.  By not making quick movements and thinking about the situation I was able to get myself out.  After I got out I went over the top of the area that I got into and I could see down into the cavity that I swam into.  It was tight and how I ever got myself into it I will never know.  What I do know is that I will keep a better eye on what’s above me besides what is next to me or below me.  After we got orientated again we continued our dive moving back towards the mooring.  Before we knew it we found our way back to the line and the dive was over.  When we got to the surface Heather and I talked about my jam up and we both agreed that we made the right decision doing what we had done.  Even though I got in a little jam it was still an excellent dive.

     It wasn’t very long and we headed in for our final dive of our trip.  We have had 10 awesome dives and this was going to be our last and final dive on the Empress.  Simon suggested that we drop straight down from the mooring and swim towards the stern.  He mentioned that there was an area where there was a huge skylight and it looked down though the center of the ship.  We quickly found this area and swam around here for a short time.  Then we continued to swim back towards the stern checking out an old staircase that the stairs had collapsed.  You could see two or three decks down into the ship.  It was a great entry point into the wreck, something to keep in mind for the next dive when we come back next year.  Before we knew it the time was up and it was time to head back to the line and call it a dive.

    Not everyone puts an expedition together to go to a foreign country that only speaks French to dive a shipwreck in cold water, limited visibility, with strong currents except for hardcore wreck divers.  This wreck is for that type of diver and not for someone who likes to have their hands held on guided dives.  The conditions here are harsh, difficult, and change on a moments notice as we have experienced on this trip.  Although we got to see some of the better conditions of the wreck sight, we also got to experience some of the more difficult conditions.  You cannot plan to dive the Empress with having excellent conditions because they don’t always exist, and for the most part the conditions are difficult if not challenging.  You have got to prepare yourself in everyway to reap safe comfortable dives.  Heather and myself found that the dives that we had accomplished throughout the week were challenging and experience building dives that got better and better.  If people think that it’s all that easy then why aren’t there droves of technical wreck divers venturing their way to the Empress.  Is it fear or the lack of interest or is it just a badass wreck that wannabe tech divers are too chicken shit to dive?